What is that Nicole up to?

Despite the rain, we have managed to get out on the bikes!  This time, we went to a place in Connemara, where there is a purpose-built Mt Bike trail called Derroura. A million dollars was spent to build this trail, which winds through some beautiful scenery that gave me the feel that a fjord was nearby (the longest fjord in Europe was not too far away). The terrain was super fun and challenging. Especially the rail-less boardwalks (my biggest Mt Biking fear!) that protect the underlying bogs. The rain made them particularly slippery, which gave me a good excuse to walk!




After that, we went to visit a friend, Gary, who owns the local bike shop. Wayne is taking mountain biking to new heights in Ireland. He is also supporting the skateboarding and bmx-ing groms. Not only is he expanding the miles of purpose-built mountain bike trails in the area, but he has built a pump track, and is finishing up an indoor skate/bike park, complete with a studio for spin classes!  It was cool to see the advancement of the sport in a place where advocates can actually make headway, rather than bang their head against the wall while people continually try and stop them from building sustainable trails.

For New Years, we headed down to Lahinch of County Clare. This little surf town reminded me of my hometown Santa Cruz, as well a previous home, Dunedin, New Zealand.  But we did not go there to surf, but rather kite surf.  I am in the stages of learning, but today felt like a big step to me. The winds were strong enough to bring out the 6 meter kite (for reference,  this is a much smaller kite than I have been using; I have been using a 10 m in much mellower winds). The kite was far twitch-ier and trickier to control than the larger kite I have used in the past. I learned my lesson quickly when I over steered, causing the kite to "loop" 4 or 5 times, going out of control and dragging me along the beach, right toward the pile of rocks. Just as well I was wearing a helmet. After getting a talking to from one of the locals, we ventured further toward the water, and eventually decided that I should start "body-dragging", which is the step you need to master before getting the board under your feet and surfing the waves. It was the perfect place to do this, due to a continental shelf that was only knee deep for quite a long way offshore.  And believe it or not, the water did not feel all that cold. This was probably due to all the cold, hail and wind outside, and the relatively warmer water heated up by the passing Gulf Stream that originates in the Caribbean. I was also wearing a wetsuit, thin neoprene rash guard, hoodie, booties and gloves. Regardless of the cold, I loved it. What? You dont think that getting tossed and tugged around by a kite through waves and hail sounds like fun?! It was great fun and felt good about the progress I made!  Then it was back to the Defender to put some warm clothes on and head to the pub for a few pints of Guinness to bring in the New Year.

We have been spending quite a bit of time exploring the city of Galway. The shops align streets, where no cars are allowed. This makes it fun to walk around and see all the buskers, shops, pubs and people milling about. Sometimes there is even a farmers market with lovely fresh cheeses, fruits, meats, crafts, and woolies. But more often than not, we are stopping off in a pub to have a hot whiskey, mulled wine, or Guinness.

Galway is located at the head of Galway Bay, lined with rocky and sandy beaches. Inside the city, there is  an intricate system of canals and lochs, as 95% of power used to be hydro. A beautiful cathedral, which ironically used to be the location of a prison, sits at the center of the city. There is also the National University of Ireland Galway (NUIG) where there is an incredible building for their Marine Institute (different from the national marine institute that we visited earlier).  Not far away is the Galway Mayo Institute of Technology (often prounounced gMIT, note the silent "g").  Lots of smarty pants in this city!  I am impressed by the education of the people here, especially the women who are Ph.D.'s and professionals. Salt Hill is a part of Galway located by the sea, which reminds me of the boardwalk in Santa Cruz, with its long stretches of beach, a promenade, as well as a theme park.  And let's not forget all the cozy pubs with yummy food (not just greasy pub food, but gourmet stuff too) and Guinness, of course.  Apparently there is not a single pub where you won't find a Guinness. They would be doomed otherwise!


One stormy night, we called into the Roisin Dubh (pronounced "russian dub", sort of) where there was a brother of a friend playing, Michael Flannery. The concert was sold out (!) but we managed to drop a friend's name and were put on "the list" to get in as guests. It was a fantastic concert, in a room of maybe 50 people.  Before Michael Flannery sang, his auntie (Kerry) and mom opened up for his band. His mom even joined him for a set or two. A talented family no doubt. They sang many earthy, melancholy ballads with gorgeous words that could bring a tear to your eye. I felt lucky to get to hear some of the local talent. A definite highlight.

While I have learned a few Irish (gaelic) words while I am here, they are too difficult to write out.  So here are some of the terminologies and phrases that I have heard and learned while here. I will add on as I go!


Good craic==Good fun

"He has told me a lot about you, but he hasn't told me anything atall"==???

You're a legend==You're brilliant

I'm grand==I am fine

mighty, mighty==good, good

yee==you (plural)

tree (or any word with a "th")==three (th always pronounced as t)
e.g., mascara tinner==gin

Your Man==any guy you happen to be talking about

your wan==the woman you happen to be talking about

mam==mom

fekkin==a polite way of saying fu*?in

..., and so == the end of many statements

Apparently rainbows are not that big of a deal in Ireland (I get the old "eye roll" whenever I get excited and point one out). But I felt pretty fortunate when I witnessed my first real, live, Irish, full rainbow - and it was a double! I saw another one on New Years day arching over the surf town of Lahinch. I guess there IS a nice trade-off (besides the flowing fields of green) for all the rain you get in Ireland.
Rainbow on New Years Day, arching over the surf town of Lahinch.

As you drive through Ireland you see loads of castles dotted throughout the country side. Most of them are half-standing, while some are renovated. And I had the opportunity to have dinner in one with the owner  (and if you are interested in buying it, he would be happy to sell it to you for the right price)!  Technically it is a tower, but it sure has that medieval feeling to it once you step inside. It was built in the 1400's, and the owner decided it would be awesome to live in a castle, so he bought it. But it was falling to bits. So over the past 10+ years, he renovated the tower himself with local materials and resources, so that he could live in it. I was really impressed with the before and after photos. He had to recreate the rooftop with slate slabs and turrets, and gut the inside, cut new stone and put it all back together again, as well as add in plumbing, heating, electricity, solar panels, and even an internal vacuum system, so as to make it live-able. Once inside, you climb up 50 winding steps to get to the main living area on the 3rd floor (there are 4 floors above the ground floor), complete with fish tank, fireplace and even a sub-floor bathtub! Needless to say, the owner is quite a character and could tell a good story or two (especially regarding the history of castles!). He is also an amazing stoneworker and gave us a tour of some of his works of art (which also tended to be very phallic).